This list outlines many of the possible routes on the wall. A route can be climbed using only the bolt-on holds, or by also using the moulded natural features. These features include ‘pockets’ and ‘smears’. ‘Pockets’ are the deep holes and ‘smears’ are the moulded edges.
The routes are graded assuming that you use the ‘smears’ as foot holds in addition to the stated colour of bolt-on holds.
If only the ‘smears’ are used for footholds, the route will typically increase in difficulty by about a grade.
If ‘pockets’ and ‘smears’ are used for footholds, the grade of the route will decrease.
Routes finish at the highest hold on the route.
Please add your comments/grade suggestions to the list at the reception area. If you climb a combination that is not shown on this list, and you think it is particularly good, please let us know and we will add it to this list.
Bolt No. |
Holds |
Grade |
Comments |
1 |
Green |
6b |
|
1 |
Purple |
4+ |
|
1 |
Pink |
6c+ |
Rounded holds! |
2 |
Light Blue |
7a+ |
Clip off last bolt - hard |
2 |
Smears |
7c+ |
Has been tried many times, hard at the top! |
2 |
Black |
6c |
Much harder if you only use blacks for footholds, not smears |
3 |
Red |
6b+ |
|
3 |
Orange |
6c |
Some very slopey holds and a long reach near the top |
4 |
Black |
5+ |
|
4 |
White |
7a |
Quite hard at the bottom and it doesn't get much easier at the top! |
4 |
Green/White |
5 |
Very reachy and quite powerful, 8a for the vertically challenged |
5 |
Electric Yellow |
6b |
Don't get bitten by the turtle, quite technical near the bottom and a hard move near the top |
5 |
Dark Blue |
5 |
Try it on smears for footholds - quite pumpy, about 6a+ |
5 |
Grey |
6a+ |
Fingery, with a hidden hold below and left of the top bolt |
6 |
Green |
5 |
Juggy |
6 |
Orange |
6b+ |
Very positive but steep |
6 |
Black |
7a |
Up and right onto the prow |
7 |
Green & White |
5+ |
Steady to top |
7 |
Purple |
7b |
Hard bouldery start |
7 |
Red |
5+ |
Quite pumpy - try it with smears only for feet, a good pumpy climb |
8 |
Bright Orange |
6b |
Do a few laps! - Positive but pumpy |
8 |
Yellow (new) |
6a+ |
Very reachy but positive |
9 |
Blue |
6b |
Open Handed Heaven, keep moving and don't get pumped |
9 |
Turquoise |
7a |
Reachy in places but made easier if you find the knee bar |
9 |
Electric Blue |
5+ |
Enjoyable climbing |
10 |
Blue |
5 |
|
10 |
Green |
5+ |
|
11 |
Smears |
6b |
Use smears only for feet and hands. Best route on the crag (P. Holmes) |
11 |
Purple/Black |
6a |
|
11 |
Orange/Red |
6a+ |
|
12 |
Yellow |
4 |
|
12 |
Green |
6b+ |
|
12 |
Smears |
7c |
Has it been done??? |